Right, so it's Golden Week, the kids are off school, the highways are a nightmare, and Japan's ski season is basically in its death rattle. But "basically" is doing a lot of work in that sentence. A handful of spots are still going, and if you're already in Japan this week, it's worth knowing where the snow is actually decent versus where you'd be scraping ice on a south-facing groomer.
Let's go region by region.
Hokkaido: Asahidake and Kurodake Keeping the Faith
Niseko, Rusutsu, Kiroro, Furano, Tomamu? All closed. Season's done. Don't bother checking.
Asahidake is the one you want to watch. It runs into June most years, and being the highest point in Hokkaido it holds snow when everything else has packed up. The ropeway is still operating and the upper mountain is skiable, though it's spring skiing, not Japow. Think firm morning crust that softens to slush by noon. Go early or don't bother.
Kurodake in Daisetsuzan is in a similar boat. The gondola's running for sightseers and the odd hardy skier. Snow depth up top is still reasonable for May but you're not getting powder turns. You're getting a workout and some genuinely wild scenery.
Worth noting: strong winds are being forecast across parts of Japan through Monday night and into Tuesday, with the Meteorological Agency flagging Tohoku's Pacific side specifically. Hokkaido's interior tends to be sheltered but check conditions before heading up the ropeway at Asahidake. Wind closures happen fast up there.
Tohoku: Gassan Is the One
Zao Onsen in Yamagata is closed. Appi Kogen, Hakkoda, Tazawako, all wrapped up for the season.
Gassan is the exception and honestly it's a cracker if you've never been. It sits high in the Dewa Sanzan mountains and typically runs through late May, sometimes into July on the upper sections. Spring skiing at Gassan has a totally different feel to anywhere else in Japan. It's remote, the terrain is wide open, and the snow is deep enough that you can still find decent conditions on north-facing aspects in early May.
The wind warning from the Meteorological Agency is directly relevant here. Tohoku's Pacific side is flagged for violent winds Monday evening through to late night. Gassan is on the Sea of Japan side so it should be less affected, but check the local forecast before you commit to the drive. The access road can close with no notice.
Nagano: Hakuba's Mostly a Memory, But Not Quite
Happo-One's main lifts are done. Goryu, Hakuba 47, Tsugaike, Cortina, all closed. Iwatake shut its gates a few weeks back.
Cortina sometimes surprises people by holding snow longer than the others given its north-facing trees, but it's not operating this late.
The one Nagano spot still worth a mention is Shiga Kogen. Parts of the plateau can hold snow into early May and a couple of the higher lifts may still be spinning. Check Yokoteyama and Maruyama specifically. Don't just assume the whole area is closed because the website's gone quiet.
Nozawa Onsen finished up a few weeks ago. Same for Madarao and Tangram.
Honest take: if you're in Nagano this week and desperate for turns, Shiga Kogen is your best shot. If it's closed, drive to Gassan instead. Seriously.
Niigata: Kagura Is Hanging On
This is actually the most relevant update for anyone who can get to the Yuzawa area quickly.
Kagura, specifically the Kagura area (not Mitsumata or Tashiro), runs the longest season in Niigata and sometimes keeps a couple of lifts going into late May. The upper mountain holds snow well and they groom it right up until the end. It's not cheap for what you get in May, but if you're already in Tokyo and want one more day on snow before winter is properly over, Kagura is a two-hour shinkansen ride to Echigo-Yuzawa and a short bus from there.
Naeba, Gala Yuzawa, Ishiuchi Maruyama, all done for the season.
Central Honshu, Kanto and the Rest: Pack It Up
Dynaland, Takasu Snow Park, Washigatake in Gifu? All closed weeks ago. Same for Ski Jam Katsuyama in Fukui.
Kanto resorts like Hunter Mountain Shiobara, Kawaba, Tambara, all finished. These lower-altitude spots don't have the snowpack to survive May.
Western Honshu and Shikoku? Daisen at Tottori, Biwako Valley, all done. Forget it.
What to Actually Do This Week
If you're in Japan right now and want snow:
- Asahidake ropeway for a Hokkaido spring experience
- Gassan if you're anywhere near Tohoku (check wind warnings first)
- Kagura for a quick Tokyo day trip
- Shiga Kogen as a long shot worth verifying
If you're back home in Australia planning next season, now is the time to sort your Ikon or Epic pass before the early-bird windows close. Niseko is on Ikon. Rusutsu too. Furano is independent. Worth doing the sums now rather than in October when everyone's suddenly panicking.
The yen is getting some attention this week after Japan apparently dropped around 34 billion USD supporting it last week. For Aussie travellers that's actually decent news. A stronger yen means your dollar goes slightly less far, but if it stabilises in a reasonable range, Japan trips remain pretty good value compared to a few years ago. Watch it over the coming weeks.
That's your lot for Monday. Most of Japan's ski season is done and dusted. But the bits that are still going are genuinely worth it if you're close enough.
