Right, let's be honest with each other. It's the 17th of May. Most of Japan's ski resorts closed weeks ago and the lifties have already started their summer jobs. But if you're still chasing turns, there are a few stubborn spots still open, and one or two genuinely worth the trip.
No news from the Japan Times this week is going to affect your ski plans. The big story in Japan right now is inflation and emissions trading, not powder. So let's skip the political theatre and talk about what actually matters: where can you still ski?
Hokkaido: Asahidake Hanging On By Its Fingernails
Asahidake is the one to watch in Hokkaido right now. Sitting at around 2,291 metres, it's the highest point on the island and it tends to hold snow longer than anywhere else in the region. The ropeway usually runs into late May depending on conditions, and right now there's still a decent base up top. Think spring corn in the morning, slushy nonsense by early afternoon. Get up early or don't bother.
Everything else in Hokkaido? Closed. Niseko, Rusutsu, Kiroro, Furano, Tomamu - all done and dusted. The resort towns are flipping over to green season tourism. If you're in Niseko village right now, you're hiking, not skiing.
Kurodake in Daisetsuzan is another one worth checking. The gondola sometimes runs for spring skiing into May, but access depends on snowpack and the national park schedule. Check the Daisetsuzan Sounkyo Kurodake Ropeway site directly before you commit to anything.
Honest take: If you're in Hokkaido specifically for skiing in mid-May, Asahidake is your only real shot. It's a cool experience anyway, volcano terrain, no groomers, just the mountain doing its thing. Worth it for the right person.
Tohoku: Gassan Still Delivering, Hakkoda Fading
Gassan in Yamagata is the standout in Tohoku right now, and honestly one of the best kept secrets in late-season Japan skiing. It sits high on the Gassan plateau and typically doesn't even open until late April because the snowpack is so deep. By mid-May it's usually in full swing with a solid base, spring corn that skis beautifully in the morning, and almost no one else around.
The lift infrastructure is basic, one main chair and a surface lift situation, but the terrain above is wide, open, and forgiving. Perfect for big sweeping carves on firm morning snow. Bring sunscreen. The UV up there in May is no joke.
Hakkoda near Aomori is likely winding down or already closed depending on the snowpack this year. It's worth a quick check on their site, but I wouldn't be booking flights specifically for Hakkoda in mid-May.
Zao Onsen in Yamagata closed a few weeks back. Same with Appi Kogen and Tazawako.
Honest take: Gassan is genuinely worth it in May. Combine it with a night in Tsuruoka, eat some incredible local food, ski a weird volcanic plateau with almost nobody on it. That's a good trip.
Nagano: Season's Over, But Next Season Looks Interesting
Hakuba is done. Happo-One, Goryu, Cortina, all of them. The Hakuba valley is green and the river is running fast with snowmelt. Nozawa Onsen closed in early April as usual. Shiga Kogen held on a bit longer but it's finished now too.
Since we're in the off-season window, it's worth mentioning that Hakuba Cortina has been making noise about infrastructure upgrades for the 2026-27 season, with improvements to the Cortina gondola area reportedly in the works. Nothing confirmed yet but worth watching if Cortina is your go-to for deep snow days.
Kagura over in Niigata (just across the range from Nagano) sometimes runs its top lift into late May for the diehards. Check their site. It's a bit of a pilgrimage but the upper mountain holds snow forever.
Honest take: If you're planning a Hakuba trip, now is actually a great time to book accommodation for next January or February. The yen situation and demand patterns mean early bookings in Hakuba fill fast, especially for anything in the Hirafu-equivalent strip near Happo.
Niigata: Kagura Is Your Last Dance
Kagura and Mitsumata is the last resort standing in Niigata and arguably the best late-season option in all of Honshu right now. The top of Kagura sits above 1,800 metres and the snowpack there is famously deep. Mid-May skiing at Kagura is a real thing, not a gimmick.
You're looking at one or two lifts running, limited terrain, but the snow quality in the morning is actually excellent. Hard overnight freeze, softens up into perfect corn by 9am. By noon it's getting heavy. Classic late-season rhythm.
Gala Yuzawa, Naeba, Joetsu Kokusai, all closed. Yuzawa town itself is quiet now, which is actually kind of nice if you want cheap accommodation and empty ramen shops.
Honest take: Kagura in May is genuinely underrated. It's not a powder trip, it's a spring skiing trip. Different vibe entirely. If you can get a cheap flight to Tokyo and a Shinkansen up to Echigo-Yuzawa, it's a solid two or three day mission.
Everywhere Else: See You in December
Central Honshu, Kanto, Western Honshu, Shikoku - all closed. Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route is open for sightseeing but that's not skiing, that's standing in a snow corridor taking photos with everyone else.
The next time any of these resorts matter is late November at the very earliest, and realistically December for anything worth getting excited about.
Start planning now. Lock in your Niseko or Hakuba accommodation early if you're targeting January 2027. The good places go fast and the yen, while still relatively friendly for Aussies, isn't going to stay that way forever.
Enjoy the off-season. It won't last long enough.
